If you’re petite and plus size, then you know that finding clothes that fit off the rack feels like searching for a needle in a haystack. Here’s the challenge: plus sizes are proportioned for taller women. Petite sizes are often too small in key areas like bust lines or hips. And stylish petite plus size options? Few and far between.
As London dressmaker Dara Stringham explains, “Finding clothes that fit you when you are petite can seem like searching for a needle in a haystack.” For petite plus size women, that struggle multiplies. As a curvy and petite gal, virtually every piece of clothing I purchase undergoes some form of transformation. I’ve accepted that almost all of my clothes need alterations… but here’s what makes the difference: knowing what petite plus size tailoring tips actually work.
Alterations can be expensive and sometimes tricky. That’s why it’s crucial to know what to look for while shopping to minimize the number of changes required and to understand what can and cannot be altered. These petite plus size tailoring tips will transform how you approach your wardrobe.
Essential Petite Plus Size Tailoring Tips That Actually Work
The Essential Hemming Strategy
Hemming pants and blouses is one of the easiest and most cost-effective petite plus size tailoring tips, and it makes a world of difference! With the exception of intricate hem or ankle details, most shirts and pants can be hemmed. At 5’0″, TCF contributor Katie Bradshaw knows this reality well: “I know a thing or two about tailoring items to fit my frame!” she says. I’m 4’9″. Everything is too long!
If an item fits everywhere else, then hemming is absolutely worth the cost to get a proper fit. The outfit I’m wearing here fit fairly well, with the exception of both the blouse and pants being too long. I had the shirt hemmed halfway up from the original hem and the bottom button, and the pants were hemmed just past the lower ankle (hemmed slightly long to allow for shrinkage).
When getting your pants hemmed, expert stylists recommend keeping in mind the fit around the ankles. “A tapered leg that hits just above your shoe (without excess fabric bunching up) will create a streamlined effect.” For skirts and dresses, consider having the hem raised to a more flattering length—a midi skirt that hits right at mid-calf can overwhelm a petite frame.
Voila! I have an outfit that is much better proportioned to my frame.
Sleeve Length Adjustments That Flatter
Sleeves that are too long can completely drown out a petite frame, making you look shorter and overwhelmed by your clothing. This is especially true for blouses, shirts, and jackets. Among crucial petite plus size tailoring tips, sleeve shortening ranks high.
When getting tops tailored, styling experts advise asking “the tailor to shorten the sleeves so they hit just above the wrist or slightly above the elbow, depending on the style. This simple adjustment can give your outfit a more polished and intentional appearance, drawing attention to your wrists and hands, which are often flattering features on petite plus size women.”
However, Dara Stringham notes an important detail: “Shortening sleeves needs to be done from the shoulder rather than turning up the hem as the cuff could disappear entirely if taken up from the lower end.” This is one of those petite plus size tailoring tips that separates amateur alterations from professional results.
If you need a quick DIY fix, you can use fashion tape, iron-on tape, or even a rubber band wrapped around the fabric to temporarily adjust sleeve length!
Waistline Tailoring for Definition
For many petite plus size women, finding clothing that fits snugly around the waist presents a major challenge. Taking in the waistline can make a huge difference in defining your shape without compromising comfort. Whether you’re working with pants, skirts, or dresses, this is one of the most transformative petite plus size tailoring tips.
Ask your tailor to take in the waistband for a snug, tailored fit. This can be accomplished professionally or, in a pinch, with a belt or safety pins placed strategically on the inside of the garment. By placing safety pins on the inside of the fabric, you can create definition while keeping the hardware hidden, unlike with a visible belt.
Fashion alteration expert Stephanie Triplett emphasizes, “The best thing you can do for yourself is to love your body in its current state and fill your mind with the knowledge needed to make changes to your garments so that you feel the most confident!”
Jacket and Blazer Modifications
Jackets and blazers are wardrobe staples, but they can overwhelm a petite plus size frame if they’re too long or too boxy. When applying petite plus size tailoring tips to outerwear, consider adjusting the length of the jacket to hit just above the hips or slightly lower for a more ideal fit- keep the rules of thirds in mind!
Additionally, we have shared that adjusting “the shoulders of a jacket or blazer can make a world of difference. If the shoulders are too wide or too loose, the jacket can create a sloppy appearance.” Professional shoulder adjustments ensure the jacket fits properly and looks sharp.
Dara Stringham warns that jackets are “probably the most difficult piece to alter as making it fit your proportions will require a lot of complex re-engineering.”
Most likely the shoulders will need to be taken in along with the back and sides, and the waist will need adjustment to match your shorter waistline. For high-quality blazers, consider made-to-measure options, by the time you factor in alteration costs, you’ll achieve superior fit at a similar price point.
The Button-Down Blouse Challenge
A critical note about button-down blouses and larger bustlines: Larger busts, shorter frames, and poor button placement often lead to gaping in the bust area. This is one area where petite plus size tailoring tips require special attention because button-downs can’t easily be let out or otherwise altered in the bust area.
While double-sided tape can prevent gaping, it seems like too much trouble. Purchasing clothes that are ill-fitting and that can’t be altered is a recipe for disappointment and body bashing. When buying button-downs, I look for a proper fit in the bust area first. Purchase button-downs to fit the bust, and the rest can generally be altered.
As one alterations expert shares, “Since I have a short torso and narrow shoulders, off-the-rack shirts that size to my shoulders inevitably produce the gapping problem, while those that I’ve tried to buy to fit my bust look like circus tents through the shoulders and arms!” This is why understanding which alterations are possible, and which aren’t, matters so much.
Shoulder Adjustments for Proper Proportion
One often-overlooked aspect of petite plus size tailoring tips involves shoulder adjustments. Many petite plus size women find that having the shoulders taken up makes armholes fit correctly and ensures the bust lays properly. This is especially important when the distance from shoulders to bust is very short.
Professional shoulder alterations might not be worth it for every garment, but for key pieces like structured blazers, tailored dresses, and investment coats, the difference is transformative. This adjustment ensures that the entire garment hangs correctly from the proper starting point.
Know What Can’t Be Altered
Understanding limitations is just as important as knowing possibilities. Style expert Imogen Lamport explains the distinction: “Tailoring refers to a garment that is custom-fitted for the wearer. Of course, since the garment is custom-fit, it looks really, really good on the person it was made for.” Alterations, on the other hand, are more focused changes.
Here are petite plus size tailoring tips on what typically can’t be altered successfully:
- Button-down blouses in the bust area (buy to fit the bust)
- Garments with intricate hem details or embellishments
- Pieces requiring more than 2 size reductions (often costs more than buying correct size)
- Items with complex engineering like tailored jackets (consider made-to-measure instead)
- Structured pieces where proportions would be thrown off entirely
Smart Shopping Strategies
The best petite plus size tailoring tips start before you even reach the tailor. When shopping, look for pieces that fit in the areas that are hardest or most expensive to alter. Custom clothing expert Sumissura notes, “Each garment is tailor-made to ensure a flawless fit, enhancing your unique silhouette and personal style.”
For everyday shopping:
- Buy to fit your bust and shoulders, these are expensive to alter
- Accept that hems will need adjustment, this is cheap and easy
- Look for styles with adjustable waists or belts
- Choose fabrics that can handle alterations (avoid delicate fabrics if you’re new to tailoring)
- Invest in a good tailor and build a relationship, they’ll learn your proportions
DIY vs. Professional Alterations
Some petite plus size tailoring tips you can handle yourself; others require professional help. For quick fixes like temporary hem adjustments, fashion tape or iron-on tape works well.
We have shared that, “If you can’t get your piece to a tailor immediately and need to do it yourself, depending on the fabric you can always do a quick stitch, use fashion tape, or even use an iron-on tape made for clothing that will hold longer than the fashion tape!”
However, for permanent alterations on quality pieces, professional tailoring is worth every penny. The difference between a $60 blazer tailored to perfection and a $600 blazer that doesn’t fit right? The $60 wins every time.
Making Petite Plus Size Tailoring Work for You
Mastering petite plus size tailoring tips transforms your entire approach to fashion. Instead of feeling frustrated by ill-fitting clothes, you’ll shop strategically, knowing exactly what can be adjusted and what needs to fit perfectly from the start.
The goal isn’t perfection… it’s confidence. When your clothes fit your body properly, you show up differently. You move through the world with the assurance that comes from wearing garments that honor your unique proportions.
These petite plus size tailoring tips are your roadmap to a wardrobe that actually works for your 5’4″-and-under, plus body. Start with one alteration. Build from there.
And remember: your body isn’t the problem. The industry’s one-size-fits-all approach is. With smart tailoring strategies, you take control.
What Are Your Go-To Alterations? and Tips?
Do you have clothing altered regularly? What are your most common alterations? Share your petite plus size tailoring tips in the comments… your experience might help another fellow plus size petite woman finally get that perfect fit!
